Watch the full video for the full story.

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After going down to the riverside of Haidakhan for a bath and climbing back up the stairs, we would go to Babaji’s kutiya (small hut). This is where he would perform his own rituals after his river bath, applying chandan (sandalwood paste) and giving darshan to the devotees. We would stand in line, kneel, receive the tika, and then move outside to the havan kund, the place for the fire ceremony.

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Every morning at 5:00 AM, after his bath, Babaji would perform a personal havan. While there is a larger public havan later by the riverside with 50-60 people, this early morning ritual was something he did all by himself. He would offer his prayers without saying a word, just gesturing to everyone, and then we would leave to have our tea and wait for the aarti.

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When the bells started ringing all around, we knew it was aarti time. This took place at the temple with the statue of the original Haida Khandi Baba. The aarti lasted about 45 minutes, filled with chanting, singing kirtans, and playing instruments like the chimta. I used to enjoy participating, singing, and playing along.

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Now, let me tell you something surprising. As I mentioned before, I had packed a "survival kit" full of tinned meat, fish, sausages, and my whiskey, fearing I wouldn't survive on the simple vegetarian food or sleep without my drink. But in the 12 days I was there, I did not touch that bag once. It never got opened.

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I lived entirely on the vegetarian food served at the bhandara (community kitchen), sitting on the ground and eating off a leaf plate. I enjoyed that food more than I had ever expected. And as for the alcohol? I never missed it. I had no trouble sleeping. The routine was so fulfilling, waking up early, the river baths, the prayers—that by 9:00 or 9:30 PM, after taking Babaji's blessings, I would go to my room and fall asleep instantly.

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I did all of this, and the feeling it gave me... well, I will tell you about what I felt in the other episode.